January 28 - Salzburg Alt Stadt and Red Bull Hangar 7

We slept a bit late, and Ron didn't feel like breakfast. My single mattress on a sofa is very comfy in the morning when the room is so cold (as I leave the window open overnight) and the bed is so warm that it is easy to sleep longer than usual! Mike had been out in the drizzle to the bakery for rolls, and I went up to have semmeln (a plain roll) and Pat's grits. We then took a couple hours to start repacking our "stuff" for the return flight. NO, NO, NO I don't want to go (Amy Winehouse). I can't bear to think of it - leave me here instead of the entire month of February doing taxes, and missing the beautiful mountains. The penalty to be paid for the long trip.

We left at 11 AM and Ron bravely drove into an underground garage in the Altstadt. Mike got out and helped direct him to park in a small space. We are always worrying about the height-clearance. And the van is so big it sticks out of the space.

Walked in the Alt Stadt. The window displays of clothing and jewelry are so beautiful. Even though none of us want to buy a thing, it is interesting to look. Although, sometimes we feel tempted and know we are trying to get rid of things, not acquire more!

We stopped at a little place in a passageway - Cafe Mozartwinkel - we sat outside near heaters and were supplied with blankets. Mike ordered what was touted as the world's best nuss schneke (nut snail) - this based on the shape of the pastry - it had cinammon, apples and nuts, and neither Pat nor Mike would vote it the world's best.

Went separate ways. Surprised to find out American Express no longer in Mozart Platz - nor internet cafe. Ron and I went to Sporer to buy morillen (apricot) schanpps. Sat in back room and had a glass of wine while reading the "International Herald Tribune" (owned by NY Times). It is our English-language paper we enjoy overseas, even though we can read it on-line for free and it is about $4 per issue to buy the hard copy. There is something to be said for having a "real" newspaper while having your morning tea and coffee or afternoon wine and beer!

Met Pat and Mike at 1:30 PM at Zipfer - not my kind of menu, so I just had a small bowl of soup. Pat also had soup (potato), and Ron had a tureen of chicken soup with vegetables.

Mary's Fladli soup

Mike's rosti with egg - he rated it a 2 out of 10 - no flavor

We walked back to Sporer to buy a small bottle of schnapps. Then we went back to the car.

We drove to the airport to Hangar 7 - owned by Dietrich Mateschitz, the owner of Red Bull energy drinks. The hangar houses a collection of his "toys", including airplanes, formula one racing cars and helicopters. He has a full crew of pilots and uses many of the planes for various functions. The hangar also has two or three restaurants and bars, including the Michelin-starred Ikarus, which features a famous guest chef every month. The architecture of the hangar is quite unique and stunning.

DC-6  in Hangar 7 (everything owned by Red Bull)

A man flew over the English Channel in this jet propulsion outfit - SCARY!

Brought over for a commercial in 1966 - has 900,000 miles on it

That evening Pat fixed penne pasta with gorgonzola sauce - trying to use up the ingredients we had on hand. It was a block we had bought for snacks and never used. It turned out delicious!! Ron made a salad and dressing to accompany it.

We watched some news on CNN and called it a night. We returned to what we dubbed our "fraternity room".

January 27 - Salzburg - Maria Plain

Mike prepared tasty omelets and warm baguette for our breakfast. Afterward we watched the lengthy Djokovic-Murray finals match. It was nice to have a very large flat-screen TV with excellent picture for enjoying the Australian Open semi-finals and finals.

Once the match was over we drove to the Bahnhof, and Pat and I went into the Spar grocery store to pick up a few items we needed that evening. On Sundays almost all stores are closed, and only in the Bahnhof (train station) will you find things open. Ron and Mike had to circle around the area numerous times while waiting for us.

From there we drove to the small suburb of Bergheim to the Maria Plain, a famous pilgrimage church above Salzburg. It began when a painting of Mary and Jesus survived a disastrous fire in Bavaria in 1663. The painting was brought to Bergheim, and a chapel was built to display it. Trying to read the story in German, I am not sure of all the details, but it seems the original painting was sent back to Bavaria and a copy was made, and around 1671 construction began on the huge basilica that is still there. It has attracted worshippers from all over the world. Also, people who enjoy walking flock to the area to walk the hills and paths. 

Maria Plain

Gasthof  Maria Plain

Inside Gasthof Maria Plain

What is UGA doing in Maria Plain?

Mike is always the most adventurous - veal beuschel (heart and lungs)

Ron's veal gulash 

Mary's boneless fried chicken - huge portion

Pat's pork medallions with gorgonzola and "tater tots"

View of Salzburg and mountains from Maria Plain  - GORGEOUS!

From Maria Plain looking at Festung Hohensalzburg (castle fortress) and Salzburg city in  the haze

We then dropped Pat and Mike off at the apartment and went to the casino, which was a mistake, as I had remembered from previous visits that we HATE that particular casino. They charge 27 EU entrance, part of which you get credit on a card to use for machines. Also, a new experience to us - in winter men must wear jackets and so Ron had to pay 3.70 EU to "rent one". Have never seen the casino so crowded. There were no machines available, and people reserving machines even when they weren't sitting there. Also, lots of smoke! We played a few machines, and didn't have much luck! The building, itself, is the old Schloss Klessheim and is quite beautiful.

Schloss Klessheim (casino)

View from entrance to Casino

We didn't stay long - just long enough to lose our entrance "stake". We then went back to our little apartment. Pat had been busy preparing black bean soup for our dinner. She had included a can of the Rotel Tomatoes which made it spicy enough, but then she added a few shakes of the dried chili flakes. Ron added a few more for his dish - shouldn't have.

Black Bean Soup

Armagnac

Even though the apartment is not 4*, we are enjoying 4* food and beverages, and making ourselves comfortable! We are adaptable - many years of travel in all kinds of conditons make sure of that. 

January 26 - Beautiful Day at Salzburg Lakes

I tended to some paperwork while Mike, Pat and Ron watched Li Na - Azarenka. I joined them for the last couple games of the match. Again, we were disappointed with the result.

It was a clear day, blue sky, and no snow, so we quickly got ready and drove out to Fuschlsee (Lake Fuschl), and had lunch at a place Ron and I had visited and enjoyed last year. The Hotel Seerose was in a gorgeous setting on the lake - you almost feel like you are on a ship when you are in their glassed-in restaurant room. The waitresses were in attractive, long black dirndls with colorful aprons, and service was excellent.

Mary's smoked trout and horseradish appetizer (fish from the lake) - Delicious!

Mike's veal schnitzel - one of the best of the trip

Pat and Ron  had pork medallions with potatoes - Pat said it was best pork she'd had on the trip

Mary's chicken strips with peppers and paprika sauce

It was a beautiful setting and delicious food - we couldn't have asked for better. Happy to have such a great day as our time here is winding down.

After lunch we walked, briefly, around the small village. The temperature was about 20-F, so we didn't want to be outside too long. Then we drove on to see a rather speedy view of Wolfgangsee, Attersee and Mondsee. We tried to visit the Hotel Billroth in St. Gilgen but a function was taking place and we could not even get into the parking area. After driving through the lake district, we stopped for refreshments at the Hotel Hollweger. It was another lovely place, high on the hill overlooking the lake. The sun was shining on the mountain peaks, and it was a glorious sight. I told Ron he could leave me here for a month or so, but he didn't agree with my idea!

We drove back into Salzburg to our little nest. I simmered chicken breasts, and Ron diced them and made chipotle chicken wraps for our light dinner. We tried to use a lot of ingredients we had bought earlier, and maybe the tortillas had seen better days! 

January 25 - Salzburg

We had a very quiet day beginning with watching the Federer-Murray match. Since we are all Federer fans, we were disappointed with the result.

Mid-afternoon we drove to the Mirabell area, and went into Bellini, a little Italian bar Ron and I like. In nice weather it is great to sit outside and "people-watch". On this snowy day, we were in the non-smoking room in back with no one else in sight. We ordered some tramezzini (Italian sandwiches), but Pat and I had ours (proscuitto and mozzarella) toasted, which is not traditional. 

Bar Bellini

A tree wrapped to keep it warm

We walked in the area and briefly went into the Dorotheum, a branch of the famous Vienna auction house. We then drove to Anif and sat by one of the fireplaces in one of our favorite hotels, the Friesacher. We have been going there for almost 40-years. It the early days we visited their heuriger, a place that serves "new" wine along with cold cuts, cheeses, olives, all kinds of food that you select from a glass display. It seems every year has brought many improvements, and now it is a 4-star luxurious hotel with a gorgeous spa and numerous restaurants. The hotel has been in the Friesacher family since 1846. They also own a large farm which provides much of the ingredients used in their restaurants. We had tried to book rooms there for several days during our Salzburg stay, but they were sold out. Their rooms are lovely and their breakfast is fabulous.

Garden Annex building

Fireplace in Friesacher

Ron's gluhwein - Mary in background

We then went to a Maxi-Market in Anif for some groceries we needed. That evening Ron tried to prepare a macaroni and beef dish we call "goop melange". Somehow, the German cans of tomatoes were too much, and it turned out more like a soup. (He says because no tomato paste to thicken it.)

January 24 - Drive to Salzburg

We left the hotel about 10 AM. It was foggy the entire way, but very little precipitation, and no problems with the road conditions. Very lucky!

We stopped off at the Berghotel Aschbach near Bad Aibling, a favorite place where Ron and I have stayed and dined many times. It has been in the same family 130-years. The great grandparents of the present owner started a small inn there, and it has grown over the years to be a very substantial hotel, restaurant, and wedding facility. On a clear day the views are outstanding over the Wendelstein Mountains. But today we were looking at fog.

Their Thursday special was rind filet  (beef filet), and thee of us had a small filet - Pat's with a yummy peppercorn cream sauce, Mike's with a red wine sauce, and mine with krauterbutter (herb butter). Ron was happy to find a schweinebraten which he had been searching for the last six weeks - served in a dark beer sauce with potato knodel. He enjoyed every bite and was sorry when it was finished.

Mike's filet with sauce and potatoes

Ron's schweinebraten

Mary's filet with herb butter and  fries

Pat's steak with pepper cream sauce

Display of desserts at Berghotel Aschbach

We continued on our way to Salzburg to find the small apartments we had rented at the last moment when we changed itinerary mid-stream after being unable to access the gorgeous house in Trin. The apartments were QUITE a different scenario. Ron and I had a studio on the ground floor and Pat and Mike a 3-room apartment up one flight. The entryway of the building was not heated, and the lights were on a timer. The studio had a sleeper sofa of sorts, which we topped with an extra "mattress" (more like a comforter). We moved the coffee table out of the way to make the bed, and used the table for our luggage stand.  In the kitchen area was another small sofa which made into a bed, and so we opened that up as well. It was not what you would call cozy or gemutlich, but it was functional with a Miele dishwasher, cooktop and oven, refrigerator, coffee maker, hot-water pot, toaster. Unfortunately, the ground level apartment had flimsy curtains and did not have rolladen shutters, and there was a street light outside, so it was very bright for sleeping.

Mary's "bed"

Sofa that became Ron's "pallet"

The 3-room apartment did not have enough light in the kitchen (which was the kitchen we all planned to use), but Pat improvised, and brought in a floor lamp from the little office. The other odd thing was that in the living room there was, in addition to two sofas, a hammock and low sofa (futon?).

Hammock and Futon

Sofa, TV opposite Hammock

Ron had read numerous reviews of people saying it was a "great location" and 10-15 minute walk to old city, but we found it rather remote unless using the bus. Believe the reviewers were a younger group of people! We had taken the apartment for one night with the agreement with the owner that if we were comfortable we would stay 5 nights. We all discussed the matter, and even though the apartments were not ideal, we felt it was easier to stay put than to move yet again.

Mike and Ron went off to the grocery store and errands, and I did some laundry in the small European machine in a closet in the unheated hallway. After many years using these machines, it is still hard to understand why they are so different from American machines - not just in size but the fact that they take so long (1-3 hours or more). One thing is that they heat their own water. Pat started to cook our dinner, which she couldn't finish until the guys got back with the groceries. A big batch of chili, which was a good thing on a cold evening.

We had a long day and all wanted to relax, so around 9 PM we went down to our little "nook" with our newspapers, and called it a night. Of course, the dryer was still going on and on - as mentioned, European appliances are very time-consuming.